Pelion, land of the legendary Centaurs, the site chosen by the ancient gods for their weddings and celebrations, rises in lush magnificence to the northeast of Volos.

It was here that the centaur Cheiron, the wise teacher of demigods and heroes, gave his pupils daily instruction in the proper care of body and soul. Here, too, the first beauty contest took place between Thetis and Eris.

"Many leaved" Pelion was an inspiration to Homer, Pindar and Euripides but also to the more modern popular muse who sung of the unquenchable desire of the Greek people for freedom.

The highest peaks of Pelion (Pliasidi, 1.548 m., Pourianos Stavros, 1.610 m.) are in the northern part of the range. Its inaccessible eastern flank, with the Aegean stretching out into the distance like a vast mirror, comes to an abrupt end in the sea, creating wildly beautiful rocky shores.

Conversely, the tranquil, calm coast of the western flank on the Pagasitic gulf is much easier to reach and encourages shipping activity.

Pelion's picturesque villages, sometimes clinging to wooded slopes or perched on steep bluffs, sometimes hidden away in verdant ravines, are so much a part of the scenery that, seen from a distance they create the impression of having "sprouted up" along with the trees.

The distinctive traditional architecture of the old houses with their narrow windows and decorated walls, stone stairways and roofs of grey or greeny slate; the Byzantine churches with wonderful wall paintings and icon screens; the winding cobbled paths, sculpted fountains, courtyards redolent of basil and gardenia; squares paved with huge flag stones where the cheerful bubbling of a little brook is never absent - are all typical features of aPelion village.

Pelion : Places to visit

Anakasia

Pop 834.
In the village, which lies to the left of the road, is the Theophilos Museum (leave the car in the car park next to the church and walk to Odos Moussiou (Theophilou).

The museum is installed in the "House of Kondos", a beautiful building decorated with frescoes by the great primitive painter, Theophilos (1873- 1934), a native of Lesbos who spent part of his life in Volos.

The first floor contains scenes recalling the War of Independence.

The road continues to climb towards Portaria with a view over Volos Bay; it passes close to Episkopi, a hill clothed in pines and cypresses and crowned with an old church which until 1881 was the seat of the bishop of Dimitriadi.

Portaria

Alt 650m, pop 769.
A pleasant resort in summer, cool and fresh, with a view up to Makrinitsa and down over Volos Bay; beautiful village square with superb plane trees (cafes, restaurants) and characteristic houses.
From Portariti take the road (panoramic view) to Makrinitsa (3km).

Makrinitsa

Alt 700m; pop 546. 
Leave the car in the square at the entrance to the village. 
Makrinitsa occupies a magnificent site on a verdant slope facing Volos Bay; it is pleasant to stroll through the steep and narrow streets among the splendid old houses; some of them are quite large and have been well preserved and restored.

The main square (platia) is especially attractive with its fountain, its plane trees and its tiny church (18C) which has external galleries decorated with low relief sculptures and beautiful icons within.

Higher up is the former conventual Church of the Virgin (Panagia) (18C): Roman and Byzantine inscriptions on the walls.

Return to Portaria and continue to climb. 
Marvellous views across Volos Bay to Mount Othris, northwards into Thessaly and south to Euboea.

Hania Pass (Agriolefkes)

Alt 1200m. 
Winter sports resort (hotel-restaurants; ski lift), set in beech and chestnut woods: there is a road from here to the summit of Mount Pelion

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The road descends towards the Aegean through beech and chestnut woods before reaching the level of the orchards. 13km - 8 miles from the pass bear left to Zagora

Zagora

Pop 2675. 
This was an important centre of Greek culture under the Turks when the Pelion region enjoyed a certain autonomy.

Zagora is a little town of houses set in orchards and gardens watered by many fountains.
It was also a centre for handwoven cloth which was exported by caique from the port at Horefto. 
The main square is at the top of the town near St George's Church (Agios Georgios) which contains a huge 18C iconostasis, carved and gilded.

From Zagora a side road plunges downhill to Horefto (pop 64), a fishing village with a long beach of fine sand.

Return towards Hania Pass; take the narrow but picturesque road to Tsangarada.

Agios loanis

Pop 143.
Very white beach at the foot of green hills.

Tsangarada

Alt 499m - 1637ft; pop 605.
Peaceful resort where the houses are dispersed among the trees ; the village (pop 41) boasts one of the oldest and largest plane trees (15m circumference) in Greece.

Nearby is Milopotamos which has two beaches flanked by rocks.

Just beyond Xorihti there is a splendid view high above the coast (Milopotamos lies immediately below) and over the Aegean Sea to Skiathos andSkopelos.

At the next junction where the road continues south to Argalasti and Platania (36km - pop 165 -- beautiful sheltered beach) bear right uphill toVizitsa.

Vizitsa

Pop 169.
Many typical old houses, some in poor condition. 
Return downhill; fine views of the peninsula and Volos Bay.

Milies

Pop 745.
This is a pleasant resort, which was a centre for Greek culture under the Turks and possesses a history library containing some rare volumes.

The road back to Volos follows the line once taken by the famous Pelion railway along the shore of the bay; there are several beaches, the most popular being Kala Nera (pop 550) : seafront promenade lined with eucalyptus trees, large beach of fine sand.

At the junction before reaching Kala Nera a road (left) branches off to the small resort of Afissos.

Along The Pagasitic Gulf

The road southeast of Volos leads to Agria (8 km. from Volos), a coastal suburb with an extensive beach in a fertile district filled with olive groves and orchards.

Here you will find a number of hotels and restaurants.
The chapel of the Virgin of Goritsa and the icon screen with carved and painted scenes from everyday life in the chapel of the Holy Cross are sure to leave an impression.

From Agria a secondary road rises 12 km to Drakia (17.5 km from Volos, alt. 500 m.), a village characterised by lush vegetation, running streams, well-made alleyways and marvellous popular "tower houses".

The Triantaphyllou mansion, decorated with 18th century wall paintings, carved doorways and moulded ceilings is considered among the best of its kind.
The main square, thought by historians to be the oldest in Pelion, hosts a folk festival on the 23rd of August, complete with traditional costumes and music.

After Agria the main road passes by Kato and Ano Lehonia, where most of Pelion's cultivated flowers are grown and sold. The air is scented with the blossoms of gardenias, hortensias, camellias and tuberoses.

Platanidia, the port of Ano Lehonia, 13 km. from Volos is a good place for fresh fish.
Continuing south the main road proceeds towards the long beach of Malaki before arriving at Kato Gatzea (17 km.), a village blessed with protected beaches and surrounded by a vast olive grove.

Next comes Kala Nera (20 km. from Volos), another seaside village with a beach, leafy plane trees, orchards and abundant water.

A side road to the east winds 7 kilometres up the mountainside to Milies (28 km. from Volos, alt. 360 m.), one of the most delightful larger villages of Pelion and an important cultural centre, as witnessed by the wealth of rare books and manuscripts in its library.
Some of its traditional homes have been renovated by the G.N.T.O to operate as guest houses.

Milies also has a fine collection of folk art (local museum), while its little railway station -- the end of the old Volos line - is particularly attractive.

Here we suggest that you try the local speciality "tyropsomo" or cheese - bread and "firikia", a kind of lady apple. 
Just 3 kilometres further up the road you will find Vizitsa (32 km. from Volos, alt. 450 m.) a mountain village concealed among plane trees whose lovely Pelionstyle towers and magnificent old mansions have led to its declaration as a landmark settlement protected from unseemly development.

Some of the latter have been renovated by the G.N.T.O. and are run as guest houses. 
If you feel like forgetting your cares and troubles for a while, try a little of the potent local brew, "tsipouro".
I through more olive groves and orchards .

Back on the main road, you pass on the way to Koropi, which occupies the site of the ancient city of the same name, famous in the past as the home of the Oracle of Apollo Koropaios.
On the 24th kilometre of the main road, a short deviation (2 km.) will take you to Afissos (26 km. from Volos).

The main road, which starts its ascent of Pelion after Afetes, forks near here: after Neohori the northern branch leads to Tsangarada passing through Lambinou, with a stunning view of the Aegean; while the southern branch goes to the big village of Argalasti (40 km. from Volos, alt. 250 m.), situated on a fertile plateau renowned for its olives.

Several secondary roads radiate out from Argalasti to the seaside villages of Kalamos and Paos on the Pagasitic gulf and the mountain hamlets ofKallithea, Xinovrisi and Paltsi, on the Aegean coast.

Continuing south there is a succession of sandy beaches one after the other as far as Milina, a pretty summer resort.
After Milina the road has recently been extended as far as Trikeri (82 km), the lovely, mansion - filled village at the tip of the Magnesia peninsula.
Up to now communications with Volos were possible only by boat via the little port of Agia Kiriaki, a charming fishing hamlet whose "tavernakia"specialise in seafood. 
Trikeri, Agia Kiriaki and Ai Giannis, an undeveloped fishing community on the islet of Palio Trikeri, form a commune, and administrative unit smaller than a municipality.

The weddings in local costume and the traditional customs observed there during Easter week and on May Day are not to be missed if you happen to be in Greece in the spring. East of Milina the road goes on to Lafkos and Promiri, a typical example of a village submerged in olive trees, winding up in Platania, a quaint fishing village to the south.

Northeastern Pelion

Climbing northeast of Volos, the road bisects the charming suburb of Ano Volos (5 km.), with the steep hill of Episkopi demarcating its eastern side.

At the nearby villages of Anakasia and Alli Meria, where there are some wall paintings by Theophilos, it is worth stopping to admire the panoramic view of the Pagasitic Gulf and the plain of Thessaly while seated in one of the district's picturesque restaurants.

Continuing the ascent up the slope of the mountain, after Anakasia the road leads to Portaria (13 km., alt. 600 m.), a lovely summer resort with abundant crystalline water and a number of hotels.

The village's delightful main square and the chapel of the Panagia of Portaria with 16th century frescoes are sure to make their impression.
From Portaria west a fork in the road winds up at a flat area filled with shady plane trees through which the beautiful traditional village ofMakrinitsa (17 km., alt. 750 m.) can be seen.

Built amphitheatrically up the side of the mountain, it offers a splendid view of the gulf below.
The flag stone lanes link its unique buildings, which because of the steep slope are three storeys on one side and only one on the other.

The higher facade is adorned with the wooden balconies so typical of Pelion.
Some of these old houses have been restored by the G.N.T.O. and are operated as guest houses under its supervision.

Try the tasty local delicacies, bean soup and "spetzofai" - a spicy concoction of sausages and peppers -- served in the "tavernakia" in the square. 
And if you visit the area on May Day, you may see some wild revels very reminiscent of ancient Dionysian rites.

Zigzagging up the mountainside past a series of stunning ridges, the main road climbs up to Hania (26 km., alt. 1.200 m.), which has become a winter sports centre thanks to the development of "Agriolefkes", where there is a refuge, ski lifts, a big slope for experienced skiers and a separate area for beginners, along with all the comforts of a modern ski resort.

After Hania, the road starts to descend, weaving in and out of forests of oak and chestnut trees to arrive at Zagora (47 km.from Volos, alt. 480 m.),Pelion's largest village. If you can take your eyes off the fantastic view of the Aegean, pay a visit to the famous school where many of the spiritual fathers of the Greek Revolution studied, the historic library with rare books and manuscripts, and the Byzantine churches of Agios Georgios andAgia Kiriaki which contain richly carved icon screens.

You would be fortunate indeed if you happened upon a traditional Pelion wedding celebrated in one of them.
Don't forget to refresh yourself with the succulent apples of the region. 
Horefto (55 km. from Volos), the port of Zagora, lies 8 km. further east, an irresistible spot with shining sea and a lovely beach, while 6 km. to the north the road ends in Pouri (63 km. from Volos, alt. 400 m.). 
Known as the "Balcony of the Aegean ", its three-tiered, tree-filled square has an extraordinary view; on a clear day you can see as far as Halkidiki.

Heading south from Zagora, you come to the village of Makrirahi (46 km. from Volos, alt. 300 m.). A deep dramatic ravine separates it from its neighbor Anilio ("without sun"), a typical Pelion hamlet.

Continuing south it is worth taking the secondary road off to the right to climb up to Kisso (52 km. from Volos, alt. 550 m.), one of the most mountainous villages on the eastern flank of Pelion, drenched in a riot of greenery.

Or you might prefer to take the left hand fork and descend to the summer seaside resort of Agios Ioannis (57 km. from Volos), where the green of the mountain blends with the blue of the Aegean.

You can swim for miles along its enormous coarse - sandy beach and feast on fish at the taverns by the shore.
Returning to the main road, you next come to Mouressi (59 km. from Volos, alt. 370 m.), built amphitheatrically amidst apple orchards and chestnut woods. 
Of interest here is the wooden icon screen in the church of the Dormition of the Virgin.
From Mouressi, it's a simple matter to get down to the pebbled beach at Damouhari.

Five kilometres after Mouressi, still driving through thick forest, you arrive at Tsangarada, on the spine of Pelion (54 km. from Volos, alt. 450 m.).

One of the most enchanting summer resorts in Greece, it has ample hotels hidden among its plane and chestnut trees.
The village houses, which are divided into four levels, are strung out along the mountainside and covered with lush vegetation.
Characteristic features of the village are its many old mansions, flag stoned piazzas, picturesque cobbled alleys and a superb view of the Aegean, not to mention its emblem - the thousand year old plane tree in the main square whose diameter measures 14 metres.

Here, too, don't miss the chance to taste the local specialities, "spetzofai" and "fasolada" (bean soup). 
An asphalted road takes you down to Milopotamos, the port of Tsangarada, 8 kilometres away.
After following a series of steps cut out of the rocky coast, you come to its sheltered beach composed of lovely smooth round stones. Not far fromMilopotamos there is another beach in a bewitching setting - Fakistra.

Pelion, Mount (Pilio)

Magnissie, Thessaly. Mount Pelion forms a well-wooded and well-watered promontory protecting Volos Bay (Pagassitikos Kolpos) from theAegean Sea. In high summer it is a haven of cool peacefulness where many people from Volos and Athens choose to spend their holidays.

Good roads and comfortable hotels add to the pleasure of visiting this charming region with its hill villages, its inviting bays and beautiful views; in winter there is good skiing.

Mythology

The sense of mystery engendered by the mountain's impenetrable forests has given rise to many legends. It was said by the ancients that during the battle (Gigantomachia) between the gods and the giants, the latter tried to challenge Olympos by piling Pelion on Ossa

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Mount Pelion was also the remote home of Cheiron, the wisest of the centaurs, who played an important part in the Greek fables.

Having encouraged the marriage of Peleus and Thetis a nereid, he educated their son Achilles, one of the heroes of the Trojan War.

He was also responsible for the education of Asklepios, to whom he explained the use of herbs, and of Jason who used timber from Pelion for the boat in which he sailed with the 50 argonauts to Colchis (Black Sea) to find the Golden Fleece.

Natural features

The mountain range is formed of schist and is marked by sheer cliffs, and deep ravines.

It culminates isMount Pelion (Oros Pilio) at 1551m, extends north towards Mount Ossa (alt 1978m) and also south, curving west to form theMagnissia peninsula.

The relatively humid climate encourages a luxuriant growth of Mediterranean plants on the lower slopes and mountain types at altitude. 
Thus the olive groves (the famous Volos olive), fruit orchards (apples, cherries, peaches...), walnut, hazel and pine trees give way higher up to forests of beeches, oaks and chestnut.

Houses

The village centre is marked by a huge open space (platia) shaded by enormous plane trees.

Owing to the abundant water sources, the houses are scattered; many are built in the traditional style with jutting upper storeys, supported on wooden corbels, and slate roofs with overhanging eaves.

The local churches do not conform to the usual Orthodox style; they are rectangular, wide and low, with little apses, external galleries and detached bell towers.